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Racha, My Beloved

Racha is the fairytale chapter of Georgia’s great book. Nestled in the valley of the Rioni River and its tributaries, the land lies shielded to the north by the towering wall of the Caucasus.  Across its gorges rise ancient temples: Nikortsminda, breathing through its delicate carvings; Barakoni, poised like a swan; and countless tiny chapels, eternal imprints of Georgian architecture. Crystal alpine lakes, waterfalls veiled in green, the silver glaciers, and the autumn blaze of colors over Shaori Lake together shape a workshop crafted by nature itself. Within this realm, the steadfast Rachians built a vibrant, many-layered world of folklore, ethnography, and legend; here, even simple cooking became true art. From this soil was born Khvanchkara, a ruby-red wine, sealed by a pact between sun, earth, and human hands. They say that just as Khvanchkara flows in their veins, so does the gift of breathing life into wood. So, In the 18th and 19th centuries, Racha became the cradle of “Wanderer woodcraftsmen,” and with their artistry its green slopes dressed themselves in lace-carved wooden dwellings. In the traditional Rachian imagery a winding trail weaves between mountains, slowly gathering height before slipping into the village, where beneath the shade of walnut trees, the time-faded tiles of rooftops begin to appear. This is the Oda, a singular dwelling that with its wide balcony, lace-like wooden curtains, stone chambers merging into the hillside, and smoke curling skyward from the chimney, rises like small fortress of life. Hosts welcome travelers with colorful adventures: nights in wooden houses, family museums and craft workshops, ancient wine cellars and evenings of folklore. The taste of Lobiani, Shkmeruli, and smoked ham lingers long in memory, while a toast raised with Khvanchkara unlocks every sense. And, as in the iconic Georgian film, the guest cannot help but exclaim: “Racha, my belovev!” For in a Racha Oda, the story always ends with return, with love found, and with the timeless promise of a fairytale’s happy ending.